Torching SS putter: Anyone made it to the blue color Pics added 1-12

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='SUITS' timestamp='1395947284' post='8963247']
Anyone trying this on a cleveland classic? I work at a steel shop so I have access to several torches. I am under the impression I need to remove the shaft for this?
[/quote]

[quote name='SUITS' timestamp='1395947284' post='8963247']
Anyone trying this on a cleveland classic? I work at a steel shop so I have access to several torches. I am under the impression I need to remove the shaft for this?
[/quote]I have done a C Classic for one of the members here and it turned out very nice. Same process of sanding, smoothing, polishing and yes the shaft must be removed.
[attachment=2143821:P1010002.JPG]

[SUITS]

Awesome, I wanna get it to the red and purple stage if not blue. How long did it take to reach bronze?

[bu11dog]

I've been thinking about taking on a putter restoration project and just might play around with some torching. I really like the idea of going either purple or blue.

[Aa.]

I keep reading out there that a putter needs to be well sanded and wiped clean of any grease/hand oils prior to any torching. It strikes me that any sanding would damage a putter's face milling though... Is there an easy way you guys have re-milled the faces, or are you simply not sanding there and just crossing your fingers that it turns out nicely?

[smeech8000]

^ This is absolutely correct. Most refinishes exclude sanding off the face milling unless there is some severe pitting on the face. I try to pick up beaters that at least have decent milling intact, i.e. no huge dings. You [i]can[/i] sand the face, however you are going to lose some weight there which is more of an issue than losing any feel; most light milling is purely cosmetic and adds very little to the softness/feedback at impact.

If there are persistent corrosion spots after coke/CLR, you can always use some 0000 steel wool on the face or even a scotch pad to get those out without any real damage to the milling, however large dings aren't getting fixed.

The only way to re-mill the face is to take it to someone who has a mill

[mac94]

Milling has only one purpose - to create a perfectly flat surface on the face.

[golf_prn_qd]

And also impacts the feel of the putter. A deep mill will feel different than a shallow fly mill or milling at all.

[Jazzmastafish]

Hi forum! I am relatively new around the golfwrx forums, but I am obsessed with golf and I have an engineering background so I think I'll fit right in around here. LOL. Here is a nice diagram that demonstrates the color of hot steel based on temperature. I'll be around more often as I just bought a raw Vokey on Ebay that I intend to torch. I'll post pictures when I get it!

[LionGolfer]

Anyone have any feedback on how the torched finish stands up to use (ball contact)? I was talking to a watch maker who heat blues his watch hands (made out of steel) and he was saying they'll stay blue as long as there is no contact.

Just curious how you guys are finding durability.

(Caveat : the blue finish seen here so far is no where as blue as what watch makers do.)

[JJ2210]

Anyone have any feedback on how the torched finish stands up to use (ball contact)? I was talking to a watch maker who heat blues his watch hands (made out of steel) and he was saying they'll stay blue as long as there is no contact.

 

Just curious how you guys are finding durability.

 

(Caveat : the blue finish seen here so far is no where as blue as what watch makers do.)

 

I did these earlier this year, here's the whole thread I made including a video of me doing it: http://www.golfwrx.c...hed-club-heads/

 

These were stainless and took an hour or 2 to do with pulling shafts, debadging, cleaning, and finally torching.

 

To answer your question I'd say the finish is twice as durable as a black oxide finish. What I mean by that is it does wear, but slowly and not as aggressively. It won't be a museum piece anymore after a few rounds. I cannot speak for other types of metals.

 

 

[LionGolfer]

Anyone have any feedback on how the torched finish stands up to use (ball contact)? I was talking to a watch maker who heat blues his watch hands (made out of steel) and he was saying they'll stay blue as long as there is no contact.

 

Just curious how you guys are finding durability.

 

(Caveat : the blue finish seen here so far is no where as blue as what watch makers do.)

 

I did these earlier this year, here's the whole thread I made including a video of me doing it: http://www.golfwrx.c...hed-club-heads/

 

These were stainless and took an hour or 2 to do with pulling shafts, debadging, cleaning, and finally torching.

 

To answer your question I'd say the finish is twice as durable as a black oxide finish. What I mean by that is it does wear, but slowly and not as aggressively. It won't be a museum piece anymore after a few rounds. I cannot speak for other types of metals.

 

 

 

Thanks for the feedback.. I have a spare stainless wedge lying around. I may try torching it for fun.

[oneaugusta]

That's interesting, I may have to try an old Titleist 60 degree I have.

[negolfking]

Just tried my first ss putter last weekend with pretty good results
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1107197-first-attempt-at-torching-stainless/

[Black Label Johnny]

I like to use mineral spirits to cleanse before I torch. Works really well using that to wipe of a putter shaft be for you torch.

[FAbb]

The putter in the very first post is incredible. Do you have to sand if the putter is a bead blasted satin, or can it just be polished?

[oneaugusta]

[quote name='AbbVT24' timestamp='1417920230' post='10554813']
The putter in the very first post is incredible. Do you have to sand if the putter is a bead blasted satin, or can it just be polished?
[/quote]Best results and most vivid colors are super smooth sanding, polish, buff, clean and then torch.

[treyerikhayden]

Wow, just soap cleaned my Cameron Classic and it looks even better than the day I torched it. Colors really popping now. Love these threads!

[ronstars]

Blue is possible for sure... I will try on my next project. But for now here are my torched blue weights in my scotty I did:

[attachment=2536145:blueweights.JPG]

[Crpcaver]

I've gotten some blues in my second attempt on my Del Mar. Some honey colors also. I like it so no more heat. About 15 minutes total.
[attachment=2536199:20141215_153550.jpg]
[attachment=2536201:20141215_153601.jpg]

[MascisMan]

Anyone know the heat progression when using Carbon steel? Is it the same as Stainless as mentioned previously in this thread?

[oneaugusta]

Basically goes: blue first and "easy to blow by it", next is a sorta dull gray then a reddish brown which is a bit like oilcan brown. I think a nice burgandy shade can be attained but have not tried it.

 

Here's a sample of the blue carbon and carbon oilcan, both are torched finishes:

 

 

 

[LionGolfer]

You did a great job on the mills!