IC3BURGH

I don't think it is wrong to recognize that modern lofts are stronger than older clubs, but focusing on it alone ignores other design changes that have occurred along side those loft changes. A lot of work has been done to move CG in modern clubs so that stronger lofts still perform with ample launch and spin. If you can now hit a 7i further while still generating ~7000 spin, you could end up holding more greens from further out which could mean 1-2 more GIR per round.

I said hope, but I know it is.

I believe the numbers that were floating around earlier this year was dollar market share at domestic retail (Golf Datatech is the primary source), but at the time LAB was third at 18%. 1) Odyssey 2) Scotty 3) LAB 4) Taylormade 5) Ping

I really hope the "insight" posted in this thread is not indicative of the insight posted elsewhere on this forum.

Just one item for sale today, a Callaway Elyte 9 wood head. Brand new in plastic. Was going to build it up, but found an alternative before I ever tested this. SOLD

Arc'teryx is now the vest of choice.

It was pretty hard not to feel like the video was slightly disingenuous with a brightly colored Scotty Cameron bag sitting next to him, but there was one thing that was definitely worth considering. Him showing the amount of torque to keep a torque putter on plane and then speaking about the subconscious benefit of a player feeling that torque. Like much of his video, I'm not going to nitpick his visualization, but this is definitely worth considering. I've been on the ZT bandwagon for over three years now. On short distance putts, I know that it has meaningfully improved my results inside 6 feet. However, I've seen some measured slippage on my lag putting in the last year. Anecdotal n=1, of course, but his comments resonate. @ChaosTheory - I think he was pretty clear that he was simply demonstrating how the torque was exhibited in specific planes rather than trying to argue that conventional putters have no/less torque. He does eventually put the Newport in the revealer to show what happens.

I think it is very good that you are working on your physical abilities to manage your golf swing. This is a much better rabbit hole for you to go down right now rather than tinkering with equipment.

Love mine, and greatly appreciate having the built scale on each load cell for measuring components.

I just don't think there is enough information to make a good recommendation. Hard to know how you respond to weight or certain feels. However if you don't like more linear/boardy shafts, Steelfiber i110 is not for you. If you must, regular would fit the feel criteria better.

I will say that a number of caddies down there are very quick to swap to a changeout, but also more generally people are completely insensitive about the weight of their bags and then the contents they put in make it worse. With that, I think the best solution depends on how much you stuff in your bag. If you tend to carry a dozen+ balls and countless other items (rangefinder, sunscreen, umbrella, rain hood, 200 ball markers, etc), go with a two bag solution and I'd strongly recommend the 2.5+ people are recommending for the caddie bag. Titleist Carbon 4 tends to be a good option too. Even for your second bag, I would probably still recommend something with a stand, a Vessel could work well. If you run light, I think you can open up towards some more premium looking bags but I would still aim to keep it under 4.5lbs. I think this generally eliminates all (most?) Vessels. I walk/carry/ride about 40/40/20% of the time and am a relatively light packer (two sleeves, rangefinder, tees/markers, small sunscreen, water bottle). I've had caddies give positive marks to my Hudson Sutler bag for its weight.

Did your delivery numbers before the shaft change look anything like they do now? If they are different, how did they change? I almost suspect that the only reason the ball height is lower is because you lost speed with the heavier shafts. Maybe I'm wrong! I'm belaboring the point, but emphasis is needed. I'm really not convinced you are hitting the ball too high because of any shaft choice. You are hitting the ball too high because you are hitting up on the ball. You are launching a 7 iron at almost 30*. LPGA players (a few mph faster) average launch a 7i at 19*. If you go from +5* AoA to -3, you will get your launch to 22*, which is probably a decent number at your speed. You'll end up with so much more pop from that change. It'll be easier for you to access the back of the ball (ballspeed up), you'll gain some spin, and you will definitely gain distance. Now if I have to discuss shaft choice, I'm putting you in 70-90g shafts. With that said, it may not make one bit of difference without changing delivery. This is not a club issue at the moment.

Another vote for Sun Mountain 2.5.

This isn't a fun answer, but it probably is the right one. I'm not sure how much shafts/heads/etc can do if you are hitting 5* up on a 7 iron. You need to hit all your clubs more like you do your pitching wedge. You need to improve your delivery because shafts alone are unlikely to get you to hit down 7*+ relative from where you are now.

I have not, but have considered throwing a graphite shaft into my standard length model since I have played some variation of a graphite shaft for about 8 years. My sense is that the putter is built to accept any 0.370" glue in shaft given the availability of the KBS GPS shaft for the counterweight and long putters.

The numbers were actually much tighter that 1%, but I did think using a nice round small error conveyed a level of accuracy that might help someone save $600. Maybe not...

I was able to MOI a set of my irons using the a 1.33 swingweight points per inch rule of thumb relative to my preferred matched club. Later verified with an MOI machine that I was within +/- 1%. You definitely don't need the machine.

They can feel like they twist with fast/aggressive swings even despite being fully set with the grip tape.